When converting your S14 from the Zenki (early period) style front end to a Kouki (late period) style front end one of the components deemed necessary for the swap is the headlight brackets. These brackets attach to the upper and lower radiator supports at the front of the car and provide a location for the inner edge of the headlights to bolt to. Read the rest of this entry »
This write up will cover all the important topics on selecting the right parts to swap an LS1 into your 240SX. This Guide is written from the perspective of starting with a completely stock 240sx and swapping in a mostly stock LS1 style motor and can be applied to pretty much any S-Chassis from an S12 up through an S15, and any Gen III or Gen IV GM small block V8.
Part 1 covers the following topics: Choosing a Motor, Chassis Modification and Preparation, Engine Preparation. Read the rest of this entry »
If your 240sx is Still equipped with factory speakers, it is highly recommended that you replace them. Even on a well kept, low mileage vehicle the foam surrounds are likely rotted beyond repair simply due to age (this was even apparent on a well kept low mileage S14 Kouki). Complete speaker replacement will benefit audio quality more than any other Stereo upgrade
|Part Number||Description||Model and years||Invoice||MSRP|
|CHASSIS AND SUSPENSION|
|11210-RS540||Engine Insulators RH engine||240SX 1989-1998||$60.87||$86.96|
|11220-RS540||Engine Insulators LH engine||240SX 1989-1998||$60.87||$86.96|
|11320-RS541||Engine Insulators Transmission||240SX 1989-1998||$34.90||$49.85|
|54420-RNS40US||Strut Tower Brace (Front) Designed to reduce movement of the strut towers during hard cornering. Handling and sterring response will improve.||240SX 1995-1998||$192.47||$274.96|
|55420-RNS40US||Strut Tower Brace (Rear) Designed to reduce movement of the strut towers during hard cornering. Handling and sterring response will improve.||240SX 1995-1998||$198.05||$282.93|
|54480-RSS30US||Power Brace Designed to reduce movement of the tension/control arms during hard cornering. Handling and steering response will improve.||240SX 1989-1994||$132.09||$188.70|
|54480-RSS51US||Power Brace Designed to reduce movement of the tension/control arms during hard cornering. Handling and steering response will improve.||240SX 1995-1998||$109.91||$157.02|
|54476-RS590||Bushings FR Tension Rod||240SX 1989-1998||$23.67||$33.82|
|54560-RS590||Bushings FR Transverse Link||240SX 1995-1998||$24.20||$34.57|
|55045-RS580||Bushings RR Suspension Arm||240SX 1989-1994||$16.15||$23.07|
|55152-RS520||Bushings RR Axle RR||240SX 1989-1993||$8.25||$11.78|
|55157-RS580||Bushings RR Suspension Link(4), LWR link RR(2)||240SX 1989-1994||$12.17||$17.39|
|56217-RS580||Bushings RR Shock Absorber Rod UPR||240SX 1989-1998||$4.44||$6.34|
|21200-RS520||Thermostat Opens at 62C(169F), Nissan OE thermostat opens at 76.5C(195F)||240SX 1989-1998||$44.07||$62.96|
|21430-RS012||Radiator Cap Rated at 1.3kg/cm(18.2 lbs), Nissan OE caps rated at 0.9kg/cm(12.6 lbs) and 1.2kg/cm(16.8 lbs) for Nissan OE turbo vehicles||All Vehicles 1984-current||$23.13||$33.04|
|22670-RR580US||Fuel Pressure Regulator Adjustable to 10Ka/L/h with a 250m/sec flow rate||240SX 1989-1998||$85.03||$121.47|
|22670-RR710US||Fuel Pressure Regulator Adjustable to 10Ka/L/h with a 250m/sec flow rate||Universal||$85.03||$121.47|
|22672-RR710||Fuel Pressure Regulator Bracket for 22670-RR710US||Universal||$23.62||$33.74|
|30100-RN225US||Clutch Disc Sprung center and composite lining. Requires OE throwout bearing||240SX 1989-1998||$131.38||$187.69|
|30210-RS600US||Clutch Cover Pressure: 750kg||240SX 1989-1998||$204.39||$291.98|
|38420-RS661||Limited Slip Differential 4-pinion, 70 lb-ft breakaway torque||240SX 1989-1998 w/o OE LSD||$627.11||$895.87|
|38420-RS662||Limited Slip Differential 4-pinion, 70 lb-ft breakaway torque||240SX 1989-1998 with OE LSD||$627.11||$895.87|
|32865-RN003||Shift Knobs Dark Gray Leather||All manual trans vehicles||$27.91||$39.87|
|32865-RN006US||Shift Knobs White Ball Type||All manual trans vehicles||$29.20||$41.71|
|32865-RN007US||Shift Knobs Black Ball Type||All manual trans vehicles||$29.20||$41.71|
|32865-RN011US||Shift Knobs Black rubber race knob||All manual trans vehicles||$35.91||$51.30|
Maybe you want to modify your gauge cluster, or maybe you need to replace a broken one, or maybe you bought a JDM cluster and want to swap it in. Either way, replacing the gauge cluster in an S14 is a quick and simple process.
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Which Intake to use:
The Factory intake piping likely wont fit in your S-chassis, Some aftermarket GTO setups might work with a little modification but it’s so easy and relatively inexpensive to just piece together your own that there’s no good reason not to.
There are three different setups that are relatively easy to go with, I’ll will discuss all three. Read the rest of this entry »
Every so often the question comes up “is there a difference between the S13 and S14 clutch pedals”. The answer is “YES” however the differences are slight. I had spare clutch pedals from both an S13 and S14 handy so I took pictures of both so you could easily see the differences.
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Ok so I wanted to buy kouki tails for my S14 since the day I brought it home. After finding what I though was a good deal on a clean set I open the box to find out they’re faded as hell… the black surrounds look Grey and almost purple in some light.
After the ’09 CIP meet and seeing nearly every set of kouki tails there looking faded to garbage it’s pretty clear that this isn’t a unique problem.
I’d used spay on Vinyl Die on plastics before to good success so I decided to test it out on the taillight and see how it goes. This is just generic stuff that I picked up at my local Auto parts store. It’s designed to repair or re-color interior pieces. Read the rest of this entry »
Those who own S14’s with the factory CD player also have to deal with the factory installed Clarion amplifiers in the trunk. The existence of these amplifiers make installing an after-market stereo somewhat of a pain. Since the amp is made by a name brand and tuned specifically for the factory speakers, it’s actually in your best interest to leave it be, even if installing an aftermarket head unit. When doing so it’s advised that you use the pre-amp outputs of your head unit and NOT the speaker outputs that normally connect to the factory harness. You’ll want to look for an “amp integration” type harness when utilizing the factory amplifier and not your head unit’s internal amplification.